Intake
Temperatures
By: Titan
There is a lot of hype on the market about cold air intakes and
many manufactures have touted the benefits of using them. There
are several different kinds of intakes to choose from but most of
the intakes that I have seen do not effectively isolate the intake
from the heat of the engine compartment. Most cold air intakes simply
move the point at which the air is drawn into the engine. Well here's
a news flash for the manufactures, as long as the intake pulls air
from under the hood it's still going to be hot air.
Intakes are traditionally made from three kinds of materials metals,
plastics, and polyethylene. All of these materials have different
heat capacities i.e. metal holds heat much more readily then plastics
or polyethylene, which leads to heat soaking and higher intake air
temperatures. So what does one do in order to get the coldest intake
temperatures possible?
The intake needs to be both isolated and insolated from engine
heat. This isolation becomes even more critical with turbo applications
and the heat that they produce.
The intake should not be made from metal. Hot metal intakes heat
up the charge of the incoming air more readily.
A ram air effect would help drop heat and add some horsepower.
You are virtually guaranteed an air intake charge equivalent to
ambient temperature using a ram air type intake. (this is cheap
horsepower for you N/A people out there)
In an attempt to design a simple experiment that would show under
hood air temperatures I purchased a simple indoor/outdoor thermometer
and taped it to the under hood fuse box (pic). Unfortunately, I
could not collect reliable data to post. I believe that there were
basically two factors inhibiting my experiment. The first was that
the thermometer was unable to quickly adjust to the temperature
changes. Temperature readings seemed to take forever to change on
the screen and when they finally did there would be a sudden jump
of 4-5 degrees. Secondly, I could not get a reliable "indoor"
reading. I was using the outdoor temperature gauge to test under
hood temperatures and the indoor gauge to test ambient temperature
inside the car. The indoor thermometer would often be incorrect
since it was normally sitting in the sun or in the hot cabin, which
skewed the readings. Even with all the difficulty I could still
make two observations.
Sitting at a red light or idling for any amount of time makes the
intake temperatures soar 90-100+.
· While traveling at highway speeds the intake charge remains
close to ambient temperatures. This figure had a lot to do with
ambient temperatures i.e. hotter days will create a hotter intake
charge.
As you can see the jury is still out on this subject. But, if you
can effectively isolate the intake from the engine bay temperature,
eliminating heat soak, and add some type of a ram air to your car
will probably attain more horsepower then most "off the shelf"
cold air intakes.
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August 2005 TSN will be holding its first ever meet
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Different
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Jeff and his team Different Racing have big plans
on breaking into some really low quarter mile times this year. Last
year he posted a 12.40 on a pretty healthy nitrous shot. This year
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