This area will feature the FASTEST FIVE SATURN CARS in their respective categories. Think your car is fast enough to be featured in the Fastest V? Send your information and mods to poc301 to have your car listed here.

Street Class
1) UnderdogSDA 13.3 (Nitrous)
2) S.Bretz 13.35 (Turbo)
3) Poc301 13.50 (Nitrous)
4) BoostedSL2 13.56 (Turbo)
5) Yardbird 13.59 (Nitrous)

Unlimited Class
1) Nefarious 12.26 (Nitrous)
2) LowSC2 12.4 (Nitrous)
3) 92saturnSS 13.33 (Nitrous)

DOHC
1) UnderdogSDA 14.21
2) Green Monstah 14.5
3) DonBaker 14.71
4) Applebit 14.8
5)SaturnMotorsportsOfCary14.84

SOHC
1) ProjectPhase1 16.61
2) Sh1FT 16.90
3) Wraith 16.98
4) jhsl1 17.2
5) SL_Sled 17.96

Ion
1) JGreen 15.48
2) schzzo97sc2 15.60
3) Chris 15.79
4) rascon11 16.06
5) IonJon 16.27

Updated 1/05

For the most recent list of the fastest five cars click here.
 

 

Techedge Version 2.0 Wideband Construction


by:Jason96SL2

I bought the DIY wideband kit from Techedge hoping for a good way to tune my car on boost. I opted for the DIY LDO1 display, DIY WB controller, and bought a pre-built cable. It came several weeks later neatly packaged in zip lock bags. All of the components are pre-sorted and labeled. It appears to be a far simpler construction than the Megasquirt, but don't be fooled. The guys at techedge have managed to fit twice as many components in far less space than the Megasquirt. Make sure you're good at soldering components that are close to each other without creating solder bridges. (Solder bridges occur when the solder flows from the component to a neighboring component or trace on the board.) This may take some practice, but it will save your controller in the long run. As a word of caution, the techedge board seems more sensitive to heat than the megasquirt.

Things to get before you start:

These may be debatable as people have their own preferences. This is what worked best for me.

15-30 watt soldering iron- I bought a 15-watt soldering iron from radio shack. This iron just barely has enough power to get the job done. I would recommend a higher power iron with a regulated heating supply. The more watts it has, the better it can maintain its heat. If I started soldering too fast my iron would cool off and slow me down. Make sure your iron has a stand or you'll be stuck trying to find places to set your iron that won't catch on fire.

.32 diameter silver bearing solder- .25 oz of it is more than enough to get the job done. The smaller diameter will allow you to get in those small spaces on the board.

Small wire cutter- You'll need this to cut the leads off the components after you've soldered them. I used a pair of fingernail clippers. The leads are rather soft metal. The clippers worked awesome, and after clipping all that metal they're still sharp enough to cut my nails.

Wet rag- Save yourself the money and don't bother with the cleaner/tinner at radioshack. All it did was get crap all over my iron. The wet rag will pull the excess solder right off the iron.

Desoldering Band- This will be a lifesaver for those who don't have a lot of soldering experience. If you accidentally make any solder bridges you can remove it with this.

Multimeter- You'll need this to test the unit when you're done.

Word of Caution- if you have never soldered before, buy a PC board at radio shack and some extra resistors and practice soldering before you start. Some instructions on how to solder are listed below.

Now to get started, get out your PC board that came with the kit and open up the section of the baggie with the resistors. It is best to sort the resistors beforehand. They are all labeled with their resistance so those who can't read the bands can still get the thing together. You'll want to start with all of the resistors that have gold bands on one end. Once you have sorted them, plug in your iron. This way it will be hot by the time you are ready for it.

Go to http://www.wbo2.com/2a0/location.htm this page shows the location of every component on the board. Also go to http://www.wbo2.com/2a0/const.htm this page has detailed instructions for the construction of the board. Below is an example of how you should use the location guide.

The following are the tan/ brown resistors with the gold bands. The first column is the quantity of the resistors.

#R

Value

Location

3

0R22 5%

R107, R108, R109

1

150R 5%

R4

6

1k0 5%

R110, R113, R203, R216, R225, R412

2

1k5 5%

R1, R3

4

2k2 5%

R301, R302, R405, R407

1

4k7 5%

R403

7

10k 5%

R111, R112, R402, R404, R413, R414, R415

1

27k 5%

R423

2

22k 5%

R221, R226

3

47k 5%

R105, R406, R422

5

100k 5%

R416, R417, R418, R419, R420

1

470k 5%

R421

1

1M 5%

R408

1

10R 1W 5%

R2

1

15k 1W 5%

R401


Starting at the beginning, find the locations on the board R110, R113, R203, R216, R225, R412 and bend the leads on the resistor as close to the resistor as possible. The press the resistor into each slot as the number corresponds. You may need to bend the leads so that the resistors don't fall out when you turn the board upside down. Continue this down the table. Once you have a group of 10 or so resistors in place, you can solder them in. Be sure to add a little solder to your iron before you start. Turn the board over and set it down on your workstation. Solder by touching the tip of the iron to both the lead and the metal ring on the board. Then touch the solder to the joint where the iron touches the lead and the ring. The solder will jump into the hole when you pull back the iron. This may take practice for beginners. NOTE: DO NOT INSTALL R2 YET. This resistor must be installed standing straight up and down. You must install the Ethernet connector first. R401 is the bicycle symbol on the bottom left-hand corner.

Once you have soldered all of the resistors above, go on to the 1% resistors and repeat. The 1% resistors will be all that's left; they are usually blue/green and have a black or brown strip on one end.

It's easiest to start with the lowest lying components on the board, so you'll want to install in the following order, Resistors, capacitors, diodes, crystals, IC sockets, and then everything else. You may want to install the test pins before the IC sockets. Soldering the IC sockets will be far easier if you have rubber clamps to hold them on the board. Construction of the unit will be time consuming. Once you have completed it, go on to the display.

Once all is complete, tap the positive wire into your 12+ ignition wire. There is a ground on the driver's side of the radio console. Simply remove the nut and screw the ground wire in. Run the NB output to your pcm if you would like the pcm to get a more accurate O2 reading while running.

If you ordered the cheaper VW sensor you will have to make a bung and thread it into your exhaust manifold. NA cars will need to mount the sensor further down the exhaust stream than the factory location as the sensor will overheat. Turbo cars can just use their regular O2 housing.

Testing:

To make sure your unit is fully functional; follow the directions on the website. The following has been taken directly from the site.
"Test Point and Connector Voltages
Test condition with 6066 sensor J1 - installed, J2 in the 2-3 position, J3 in the 1-2 position. Negative (Black) lead of DVM on GND (left) end of D2. Sensor in free-air. Battery voltage of 12.0 Volts. The voltages (in red) are for when butane is briefly squirted into the end of the sensor and these voltages rapidly change back as the butane dissipates from around the sensor element. The "butane voltages" are just a rough check that the unit is working.
Note that these voltages were obtained from a production unit and the calibration set for a 6066 sensor. 7057 sensor values should be similar. The readings may also depend on the type of meter you use.

Test Points (grouped as on PCB)

Ip Tp1 2.74 (1.30)
Vpb Tp2 3.30 (0.67)
NBsim Tp6 0.02 (0.90)
SVout Tp5 4.05 (1.05)
WBLin Tp3 5.03 (0.01)
WBVout Tp4 3.53 (0.05)

Circular connector - Y3

Vs Y3-1 2.48 (2.48)
Vs/Ip Y3-2 2.01
Ip Y3-3 2.75 (1.45)
IpCal Y3-4 2.91 (1.05)
VGND Y3-5 2.01 (as for Y3-2)
H- Y3-6 5.0 (blow into sensor to cool heater-may go down to 1.0 Volt)
H+ Y3-7 12.0 (battery voltage)

RJ45 I/O Connector - Y1

SVout Y1-1 4.05 (as for SVout)
Rx Y1-2 0 (-9.0 Volts if PC connected)
Tx Y1-3 -9.0
WBlin Y1-4 5.03 (as for WBlin)
GND Y1-5 0 (GND)
NBSim Y1-6 0.02 (as for NBSim)
WBVout Y1-7 3.53 (as for WBVout)
VBatt Y1-8 12.0 (as for Battery, 0.9 less if LD01 connected)

Once you've verified that everything is working correctly, go try it out!


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August 2005 TSN will be holding its first ever meet in Chardon, Ohio. Some of the fastest Saturns in the country will be attending. Activities will include drag racing, dyno, tech session, and BBQ. Look for the latest information in the forums.

 

Different Racing

Jeff and his team Different Racing have big plans on breaking into some really low quarter mile times this year. Last year he posted a 12.40 on a pretty healthy nitrous shot. This year he has a new turbo setup and some serious determination. Visit his website for the latest news and information. I expect we'll be seeing some low 12's from him by the end of the year.